Executive chef Craig T. Meyer of Algonquin Golf Club is proud that the Chefs de Cuisine Association of St. Louis, an affiliate of the American Culinary Federation, recently chose him as the 2006 Chef of Year. But he isn’t resting on his laurels.
“I’m in tough competition to be part of the 2008 U.S. Culinary Team,” Meyer said. The competition is held every four years in Germany and is called the Internationale Kochkunst Ausstellung, which is referred to as the culinary Olympics. It is the world’s oldest and largest international culinary competition. “It doesn’t get much coverage, but the competition is intense, so intense. It takes precision, presentation and creativity.”
Who makes up the U.S. team? The U.S. team is made up of … certified master chefs. [There are also] regional teams – Midwest, Southwest, etc. – along with pastry, military and youth teams. Right now I am waiting to hear when and where the next event will be and if I’ll be part of the team. … We compete against teams from 38 other countries. Sweden, Switzerland, Canada and Germany are our biggest rivals. The ACF has a new lobbyist who is trying to get more funding, like [auto] racing. We don’t have much. Sweden does. They have an 18-wheeler kitchen that has everything.
What kinds of events are there? The first phase is cold food, which is food that is not necessarily eaten but displayed. It also includes the theory of food, nutritional balance and layout. Phase two is the hot food, which is a big elimination process.
Have you won any medals? Well, I have three gold, two silver and four bronze [from various culinary competitions]. Most of [these awards] are in the hot foods category. My goal is to beat Sweden in the cold foods. Currently the U.S. is the reigning world champion in the hot foods category.
What is the difference between cooking at a private club and a public restaurant? Everything and nothing. The food integrity is exactly alike. It must be well-created and presented, good value for the money. The big difference is that more of my food budget goes directly into the food. I don’t have to worry about things like rent, utilities, accountants, etc. And I know my members. Some eat here three to four times a week. Also, there is less pressure because we can’t go belly up as easily as a public restaurant can.
How hard it is to create new menus in a private restaurant?
I have to stay sort of middle of the road to please everyone. However, in this environment, I can educate the members in a quiet, unobtrusive manner, and, because I know what they like, I can challenge them more often.
What is your favorite food to work with? Seafood. It’s so delicate that it has to be treated lightly. I like to work with Dover sole and Cape scallops. I’m also into a lot of braising this time of year, like for short ribs. I can’t get away from certain foods like crab cakes and lobster bisque. They are a part of who I am. I also like to cook foods with whole grains and olive oil vinaigrettes.
Where do you get new ideas for the menu? Lots of reading, surfing, conversations with other chefs and anyone interested in food. I also get a lot of ideas from the other guys in the competition circuit. And I’m a “seasonal chef.” I use ingredients that are in season.
How did you get started in the culinary industry? I needed a job in high school, and that is where it started. My first job working with food was de-boning Dover sole tableside at The Saint Louis Club. I also washed dishes and bused. At 19, I was accepted into the Culinary Institute of America in New York. I worked in Chicago to complete my training, and in 1989 I came home to St. Louis. I have worked in various positions in establishments like Bristol Bar and Grill, Fedora Café and both Racquet Clubs.
What ingredient won’t we find in your kitchen? Personally, I absolutely hate stuffed green peppers. They will never be on a menu I have anything to do with. You also won’t find boxed foods in my kitchen.
What’s your secret to success? I have a responsibility to the club’s membership, and that translates into a responsibility to the local cooking organizations. There’s never a time in which we’ve learned everything, and I’m always out there assessing things like clientele changes. Change comes from within. It doesn’t matter which kitchen you work in, if you’re willing to work on it, change can come from that. I’ve been here 13 years, and the only thing that stays the same is change. And competing on an international level definitely keeps the ol’ ego in check.
This article appears in Jan 1-31, 2006.