Matt Berkley, Author at Sauce Magazine: Intelligent Content For The Food Fascinated https://www.saucemagazine.com/author/matt-berkley/ Your Guide to St. Louis Restaurants, Recipes, and Food Culture Tue, 05 Aug 2025 09:02:13 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://www.saucemagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/07/cropped-sauce-magazine-favicon-Katrina-Behnken-32x32.png Matt Berkley, Author at Sauce Magazine: Intelligent Content For The Food Fascinated https://www.saucemagazine.com/author/matt-berkley/ 32 32 248446635 Review: 58hundred in Southwest Garden https://www.saucemagazine.com/places-2/review-58hundred-in-southwest-garden-17337447/ Mon, 17 Feb 2020 21:56:03 +0000 https://www.saucemagazine.com/places/review-58hundred-in-southwest-garden-17337447/

Housed in a whitewashed brick building on a quiet corner near The Hill, 58hundred (from the owners of The Block in Webster Groves) is a homey neighborhood spot in Southwest Garden that’s ideal for a lunch date. Wide-plank wood floors, bright white walls and a massive bar bifurcating two dining areas create an open, sprawling […]

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Housed in a whitewashed brick building on a quiet corner near The Hill, 58hundred (from the owners of The Block in Webster Groves) is a homey neighborhood spot in Southwest Garden that’s ideal for a lunch date. Wide-plank wood floors, bright white walls and a massive bar bifurcating two dining areas create an open, sprawling feel. The tight menu features vegetable-focused dishes alongside decadent cuts of meat.

charred vegetable salad Credit: david kovaluk


Charred Vegetable Salad
 
You don’t have to be a vegetarian to fall head over heels for this salad. A bright collection of broccoli, zucchini, edamame and carrot is dusted with a savory house seasoning that incorporates fennel, coriander, salt and pepper before getting grilled. The charred veggies are tossed with crunchy quinoa and drizzled with a citrus vinaigrette laced with honey. 

braunschweiger plate at 58hundred Credit: david kovaluk


Braunschweiger Plate
 
Billed as an appetizer, the braunschweiger plate is substantial enough to serve as a main. The kitchen utilizes whole hogs to make the super savory liver sausage pate in-house. It’s cut into thick rounds and served alongside generous slices of grilled Companion multigrain bread accompanied by whole grain mustard, a dollop of mayo, house pickles and pickled red onions – all the makings for the best braunschweiger sandwich.

Grilled 3-Cheese 
One bite of the grilled cheese dunked into creamy, impossibly rich tomato soup is enough to slay all pretenders. Crispy sourdough laced with salt and olive oil is the perfect delivery for the combination of two cheddars and tangy, intense blue cheese. Rounding out the cast: grilled portobello mushrooms and a marinated artichoke hummus that brings a little nuttiness to the thick and cheesy lunchtime classic.   

the bar at 58hundred Credit: david kovaluk


Hot Ham & Cheese
 
The ham and cheese is seared on a flattop until its rich filling peeks out the side of the brioche bun beckoning you on. Thin slices of juicy, house-smoked ham are paired with a healthy dose of sweet caramelized onions, then drenched in a creamy jalapeno Mornay that comprises white and sharp cheddar.


quinoa bowl with an added egg at 58hundred Credit: david kovaluk

Quinoa Bowl
Fluffy and chewy at once, nutty red and white quinoas are cooked in house-made vegetable stock then piled with layers of flavor from a mix of veggies. Butternut squash, roasted peppers, zucchini, carrot, cremini and shiitake mushrooms, spinach and bright, charred broccoli are all in the delicious mix. It’s served with brown rice and a sesame-soy reduction. 

The Downside
The only disappointment from the lunch menu was the bland basil pesto risotto. Adding sauteed shrimp failed to rescue a dull lump of risotto that delivered only faint hints of the expected fresh pesto flavor.  

Matt Berkley is a longtime contributor and critic at Sauce Magazine. 

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Review: Arber Café in South City https://www.saucemagazine.com/places-2/review-arber-cafe-in-south-city-17340992/ Thu, 09 Jan 2020 12:00:00 +0000 https://www.saucemagazine.com/places/review-arber-cafe-in-south-city-17340992/

An ideal spot for a midday refuel, Arber Café is a South City treasure with heavenly baked goods. The restaurant turns out traditional Albanian dishes and classic Mediterranean comfort food, and pictures of the owner’s native Albania line the walls for a cozy coffeehouse vibe. Gyro Deluxe A delight to any serious carnivore, the massive gyro […]

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An ideal spot for a midday refuel, Arber Café is a South City treasure with heavenly baked goods. The restaurant turns out traditional Albanian dishes and classic Mediterranean comfort food, and pictures of the owner’s native Albania line the walls for a cozy coffeehouse vibe.

Gyro Deluxe 
A delight to any serious carnivore, the massive gyro deluxe is double-stuffed with thick slices of lamb-beef gyro meat and qofte, a traditional Albanian meatball laden with garlic, oregano and a heavy dose of coarse-ground pepper. These are tucked into a pillow of pita along with red onion, feta and tomato and served with a generous supply of house-made yogurt sauce, fresh cucumber and garlic.   

ali pash tepelena rice Credit: david kovaluk


Ali Pash Tepelena Rice
Though not featured on the regular menu, this traditional Albanian meat and rice dish is a crowd favorite. It is regularly catered to the International Institute of St. Louis’ weekly lunch and shows up as a special at Arber. The Old World dish begins with a bed of savory arborio rice studded with crunchy bits of almonds and raisins for a hint of natural sweetness. A heaping portion of grilled chicken, marinated simply with olive oil, salt and pepper, rests on top. 

Olive Salad
This fresh, citrusy vegetarian dish bursts with bold colors. True to its origins in southern Albania, an environment rich in olive groves and lemon trees, this classic salad leans heavily on chopped oranges, lemons and olive oil. Rich kalamata olives are accented nicely by chopped red onion and flakes of oregano.     

Byrek 
A pilgrimage to Arber Café would be incomplete without an order of byrek. Served in four pieces, these crispy phyllo pastries are stuffed with a choice of spinach, cheese or ground beef with spices. The fresh spinach includes feta and strong hints of mint and oregano for a warm, crunchy pocket of cheesy goodness. The unique, savory ground beef byrek delivered notes of garlic, onion and oregano with a satisfying crunch.   

albanian pettula Credit: david kovaluk


Albanian Pettula
Traditional Albanian pettula, or fried dough, is a crispy, sweet indulgence of the highest order. Thick, yeasted dough balls are pan-fried to order and sprinkled with crushed pistachios and honey. Simple and seductively sweet, a six-piece order is worth a trip in itself.  

The Downside
Unless you’re ordering for pickup, don’t expect grab-and-go speed. Be prepared to settle in with a coffee while you wait.    

Matt Berkley is a longtime critic for Sauce Magazine. 

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Review: Thai Nivas Café in Creve Coeur https://www.saucemagazine.com/places-2/review-thai-nivas-cafe-in-creve-coeur-17340230/ Tue, 12 Nov 2019 22:25:54 +0000 https://www.saucemagazine.com/places/review-thai-nivas-cafe-in-creve-coeur-17340230/

A steady stream of regulars pours into Thai Nivas Café in Creve Coeur every day. The warm, wood-paneled dining room is abuzz with a business lunch crowd, busy servers, a phone ringing with carryout orders and, like a maestro with eyes locked on the score, a sushi chef meticulously slicing rolls in his open prep area. […]

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A steady stream of regulars pours into Thai Nivas Café in Creve Coeur every day. The warm, wood-paneled dining room is abuzz with a business lunch crowd, busy servers, a phone ringing with carryout orders and, like a maestro with eyes locked on the score, a sushi chef meticulously slicing rolls in his open prep area. The side-by-side Thai and Japanese menus provide unique options along with all the standards, which are executed exceptionally.

Tom Yum Soup
Lemongrass mingled with a healthy dose of fish sauce sets the tone for this hot and sour soup. I added the chicken (tofu and shrimp are also available), which made a nice combination with the generous bowl of bright red broth teeming with thick-cut mushrooms, green onion slivers and chopped cilantro.

the sushi bar at thai nivas café Credit: david kovaluk

Combo Maki Lunch Special
Made to order in front of you, the sushi at Thai Nivas is killer. The combo maki lunch special includes a warm, crispy, creamy shrimp tempura roll. Better still was the bigger spicy yellowtail roll, which came with avocado and cucumber laced with bright orange smelt eggs and drizzled with a rich, spicy aioli. Along with the sushi, the special came with a bowl of satisfying miso soup bobbing with hunks of tofu and a side salad bathed in ginger dressing.

Pad Peanut Sauce Noodles
If you can polish off an entire order of these noodles, you’ll likely hate yourself, but the journey there will be absolutely fantastic. An enormous mound of soft, thin rice noodles is coated with decadent peanut sauce. The chicken option went exceptionally well with this one, combined with stir-fried carrot, sweet bell pepper, onion and little bits of scrambled egg that cling to each bite.

ma-sa-man curry at thai nivas café Credit: david kovaluk

Ma-Sa-Man Curry
This blissful dish delivers tender bits of chicken in a rich red curry sauce with a sweet coconut milk base. Hunks of potato add heft along with softened white onion and a heavy addition of crushed peanuts, which bring a satisfying crunch to the sauce. It’s served with a heap of white rice to soak up the curry.

Basil Stir-Fry
This was a lovable take on standard Thai stir-fry. Flavors of fresh basil permeate the dish, and the medium heat option offers just enough spice not to overwhelm the senses. I chose to add pork, succulent and generously portioned, to the thick cuts of white onion and red and green bell pepper.

The Downside
I expected a lot more from the bamee moo dang, a hearty noodle soup dish off of the Thai special menu. There was nothing special at all about the dull mass of yellow egg noodles and the bland slices of “barbecue” pork, which failed to be rescued by the broth.

Matt Berkley is a longtime contributor and critic for Sauce Magazine. 

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Review: The Piccadilly at Manhattan in Maplewood https://www.saucemagazine.com/places-2/review-the-piccadilly-at-manhattan-in-maplewood-17334381/ Fri, 11 Oct 2019 21:03:14 +0000 https://www.saucemagazine.com/places/review-the-piccadilly-at-manhattan-in-maplewood-17334381/

Owned and operated by the same family since the 1920s, The Piccadilly at Manhattan at 7201 Piccadilly Ave., makes patrons feel more like houseguests than customers. Graced with an intimate, inviting outdoor space including a covered patio, this neighborhood mecca of casual, down-home fare is a delightful spot to drop in for lunch. The menu, available […]

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Owned and operated by the same family since the 1920s, The Piccadilly at Manhattan at 7201 Piccadilly Ave., makes patrons feel more like houseguests than customers. Graced with an intimate, inviting outdoor space including a covered patio, this neighborhood mecca of casual, down-home fare is a delightful spot to drop in for lunch. The menu, available Tuesday through Saturday, teems with time-tested family recipes.  

smoked prime rib Credit: david kovaluk

Smoked Prime Rib Sandwich
This sandwich starts with whole rib-eye loin hickory-smoked in a well-worn charcoal barbecue pit proudly parked in the lot outside the kitchen. Smoked to medium-rare, the meat is finished on a flattop grill, then tucked in a buttery, toasted brioche bun along with melted Swiss-American cheese and a dollop of house-made horseradish-dill cream sauce for some kick. Served standard with thick-cut french fries, the sandwich is supremely satisfying.

The Patty Melt
The patty melt at Piccadilly is happiness on bread – thick, toasted slices of marbled pumpernickel rye, to be exact. The 8-ounce patty consists of ground brisket, short rib and chuck, a beefy trio that results in a juicy, red-centered burger that doesn’t fall apart as you tear into it. Gooey, melted Swiss-American cheese and house-made Thousand Island dressing mix and mingle with a soft pile of grilled yellow onions to complement each bite. Comfort food at its finest.

fried chicken plate Credit: david kovaluk

Fried Chicken Plate
Per the homestyle family recipe, the chicken is treated to a simple coating of salt, pepper and flour. The golden-brown crust has a light, satisfying crunch that gives way to a marvelously moist bird. An entire half-chicken serving (or your choice of white or dark meat) comes with boiled green beans and mashed potatoes topped with rich chicken gravy.

Chicken Potpie
Piccadilly’s owners estimate they serve up to 10,000 potpies in a year. By far the most popular item on the menu, it lives up to the hype. Thick chunks of white meat are roasted then tossed into a stew rich with lima beans, carrots, corn, onions and heavy cream. The savory mixture is ladled into a bowl, topped with puff pastry and baked to crispy perfection for a simple-yet-substantial execution of the classic comfort food dish.


shrimp po’boy Credit: david kovaluk

Shrimp Po’Boy
Piccadilly’s is a superb take on the Southern classic. Plump shrimp dusted with house-made Cajun seasoning are seared to not-quite-blackened, then folded into a toasted hoagie roll and finished with a drizzle of remoulade that brings zest and creaminess.

The Downside
One of the sadder dishes was the seared tuna steak salad. While the sushi-grade fish was served with a nice medium-rare, purple-pink center, the salad needed something more than romaine and just-satisfactory sesame-ginger vinaigrette.      

Matt Berkley is a longtime contributor and critic for Sauce Magazine. 

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Review: Morning Glory Diner on Cherokee Street https://www.saucemagazine.com/places-2/review-morning-glory-diner-on-cherokee-street-17334213/ Thu, 19 Sep 2019 16:35:08 +0000 https://www.saucemagazine.com/places/review-morning-glory-diner-on-cherokee-street-17334213/

The Morning Glory Diner at 2609 Cherokee St., is the kind of back-to-basics, hash-slinging joint reminiscent of a time before upscale comfort food became an overhyped, overpriced commodity. The straightforward menu board, which hangs over the open kitchen and long wooden luncheonette counter of the former Vista Ramen, touts classic lunch items that are as […]

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The Morning Glory Diner
at 2609 Cherokee St., is the kind of back-to-basics, hash-slinging joint reminiscent of a time before upscale comfort food became an overhyped, overpriced commodity. The straightforward menu board, which hangs over the open kitchen and long wooden luncheonette counter of the former Vista Ramen, touts classic lunch items that are as casual and simple as the space itself. Here are some of the standouts.

The Cheeseburger
This understated smash burger is nostalgia on a bun. It should be a requisite order for first-time diners at Morning Glory. Don’t settle for a single patty – order the double. A higher-than-typical fat-to-lean beef ratio yields a juicy patty perfectly seared on a raging hot, butter-laden flattop. Topped with American cheese, red onion, dill pickle and tomato, the crispy, 5-ounce patty is tucked in a toasted bun.  

Fried Chicken Sandwich
Brined in a bath of buttermilk and Cajun spices, chicken thigh meat is breaded in cornmeal before being deep-fried to order. The end product: a piping hot, delightfully crispy, succulent fried chicken sandwich.

the blt at morning glory diner Credit: david kovaluk

BLT
There are no surprises with this by-the-book execution of the old-school classic. Thick-cut, smoke-laden bacon is seared to order for each sandwich and piled on buttery, crispy slices of white toast with a rich layer of mayonnaise that oozes into every bite. Finishing it off are juicy hothouse tomatoes sprinkled with salt and spring lettuce mix.  

Loaded Fries
Three types of beans – white, black and seasoned chili – fortify the satisfying signature vegetarian chili. Thick and substantial, but not overly spicy, the chili benefits from a warm, earthy base of house-made vegetable stock. When ladled on top of a generous pile of crispy shoestring fries, cheddar and diced red onion, the chili becomes an utter knockout.    

the dining room at morning glory diner Credit: david kovaluk

Chicken Salad
Tender bits of thigh meat are also employed in the Waldorf-style chicken salad sandwich. A creamy mayonnaise base is complemented by a firm crunch of chopped celery, sliced almonds and sweet bits of Granny Smith apple and grapes. This light and gratifying sandwich is served on a thick toasted bun with red onion and a sprinkle of mixed greens.   

The Downside
While walk-in customers are welcome to place to-go orders, the diner doesn’t accept any orders over the phone. 

Matt Berkley is a longtime contributor and critic for Sauce Magazine.

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Review: Sultan Mediterranean Restaurant in The Grove https://www.saucemagazine.com/places-2/review-sultan-mediterranean-restaurant-in-the-grove-17334237/ Wed, 10 Jul 2019 21:10:00 +0000 https://www.saucemagazine.com/places/review-sultan-mediterranean-restaurant-in-the-grove-17334237/

Sultan Mediterranean Restaurant is a new family-run operation turning out delectable Middle Eastern dishes at 4200 Manchester Road in The Grove. The dark gray dining space, sparsely decorated with Turkish textiles hung here and there, belies the bright and dazzling plates of food hustled out of the busy kitchen. Here were some of the standouts. […]

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Sultan Mediterranean Restaurant is a new family-run operation turning out delectable Middle Eastern dishes at 4200 Manchester Road in The Grove. The dark gray dining space, sparsely decorated with Turkish textiles hung here and there, belies the bright and dazzling plates of food hustled out of the busy kitchen. Here were some of the standouts.

the dining room at sultan mediterranean restaurant Credit: izaiah johnson


Lentil Soup
Until around 3 p.m., meals at this small and welcoming spot begin with a complimentary bowl of lentil soup, which is prepped every morning and served until the pot runs dry. This surprisingly satisfying stew is a mixture of lentils, onion, curry and brown rice slow-simmered into a curry lover’s dream.

Lahmageen Bread
The crispy, fluffy house-made naan coming out of Sultan’s clay tandoor oven is what all restaurants should aspire to create. It’s best as a base for the lahmageen bread dish – a savory flatbread spread with a rich, meaty paste of tomato, ground beef, onion and spices. Sprinkled with sumac-flavored pickled onion to add a bit of sourness, the lahmageen also comes with a lemon wedge and a light drizzle of garlic yogurt.

sultan’s media saeed Credit: izaiah johnson


Sultan Pilau

This signature dish is a savory phyllo dough potpie teeming with tender pieces of lamb shank, kabsa-spiced brown rice, raisins, carrots, pistachios, walnuts and slivers of almond. When attacked with a fork, the crispy crust explodes onto the plate, leaving a heaping mound of meat and rice complemented by a side of creamy garlic-yogurt-cucumber sauce and a salad of raw cucumbers, onions and roma tomatoes in a lemony vinaigrette. Good luck finishing this feast in one sitting.

Saffron Curry Chicken
Paired simply with a neat pile of white basmati rice, this understated dish showcases a vibrant tomato- and cream-based sauce swimming with the unmistakable taste of saffron along with garlic, ginger, garam masala and other tandoori spices. The sauce practically begs to be soaked up by a piece of the house-made naan.

munto (steamed dumplings) at sultan mediterranean restaurant Credit: izaiah johnson


Munto
This superstar dish features 10 gloriously plump dumplings stuffed with a mixture of ground beef, onion, parsley and a unique Middle Eastern seven-spice blend featuring cumin and a sprinkle of cayenne for nice bit of heat. The happy little dumplings are steamed then are finished off in a thick, buttery tomato sauce and topped with a healthy dose of creamy garlic yogurt and parsley.

Qali
The qali stew is generously filled with slow-simmered beef and green and bright orange bell peppers. Its dark tomato sauce is salty, rich and heavy with garlic and oregano, perfect spooned over the accompanying side of white basmati rice and balanced by a zesty cucumber, tomato and onion salad.

The Downside
The only hiccup in the operation is the lack of a dedicated lunch menu, which is still in the works.

Matt Berkley is a longtime critic and contributor to Sauce Magazine. 

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Review: Lola Jean’s Giveback Coffee in Southampton https://www.saucemagazine.com/places-2/review-lola-jeans-giveback-coffee-in-southampton-17340990/ Tue, 18 Jun 2019 21:52:10 +0000 https://www.saucemagazine.com/places/review-lola-jeans-giveback-coffee-in-southampton-17340990/

Lola Jean’s Giveback Coffee, sister restaurant to neighboring Russell’s on Macklind, is an inviting cafe with a mission: the restaurant donates all proceeds to nonprofits like Big Brothers Big Sisters. But that’s not the only reason to go.  A bright mural of lemons backdrops the laid-back, kid-friendly space, and, on warm days, the back patio […]

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Lola Jean’s Giveback Coffee
, sister restaurant to neighboring Russell’s on Macklind, is an inviting cafe with a mission: the restaurant donates all proceeds to nonprofits like Big Brothers Big Sisters. But that’s not the only reason to go. 

the dining room at lola jean’s Credit: david kovaluk

A bright mural of lemons backdrops the laid-back, kid-friendly space, and, on warm days, the back patio teems with patrons. The menu is as fun and approachable as the decor, featuring well-executed takes on classic lunch fare prepared by chef-owner Russell Ping. It’s tempting to linger all day.

breakfast burrito at lola jean’s Credit: david kovaluk


Breakfast Burrito
Served all day, there is no reason to miss the plump breakfast burrito. Along with fluffy scrambled eggs, it’s stuffed with a mound of rich carnitas cooked overnight in a southwestern rub, shredded and brought to crispy heaven on a flattop. Pickled jalapeno and serrano peppers add tartness and a hint of heat, while a chipotle-lime aioli and shredded white cheddar bring a zesty, creamy element. The hearty burrito is wrapped in a thick flour tortilla and seared on a panini press.

Braised Chicken Thigh Baguette
Moist, tender chicken braised in white wine with celery, onion, rosemary, thyme and garlic is the centerpiece of this outstanding sandwich. The sumptuous, shredded thigh meat is piled high on a hot and crusty baguette along with a slice of melted Swiss and finished with a generous slather of house-made aioli and a rich green olive tapenade – the ideal pair for the delicate chicken.

the chopped salad at lola jean’s Credit: david kovlauk

Chopped Salad
This is the superstar of Lola Jean’s menu. Thick pieces of bacon are generous and flavorful, fresh cherry tomatoes burst with snappy perfection, nutty toasted sunflower seeds warm you like sunshine and a hard-boiled egg adds substance. But the real workhorse is the basil vinaigrette – a fresh and flavorful amalgamation of basil, honey, red wine vinegar, salt, pepper and olive oil that seeps onto every delicious forkful.

Roasted Turkey Sandwich
Served cold between two massive slices of country white bread, this is a straightforward and delicious turkey sandwich. Ping has fun with the house-made aioli, which offers a tinge of sweetness from powdered sugar added to imitate Miracle Whip. The rest of the sandwich is textbook: giant slices of moist turkey, a huge cut of gloriously red beefsteak tomato seasoned with just the right amount of salt and pepper, and a crisp layer of iceberg lettuce.

the new york strip loin sandwich Credit: david kovaluk

New York Strip Loin Sandwich
New York strip loin is roasted medium-rare, then sliced and seared on a hot flattop for this carnivore-pleasing sandwich. Layered with white cheddar, sweet pickled shallots and a creamy, rich horseradish Dijon on Breadsmith sourdough, the sandwich is buttered and finished on a hot panini press.

The Downside
This popular spot is absolutely slammed Saturdays and Sundays, making getting a table nearly impossible. It can also be hard to make a carryout order over the phone – I’ve let it ring without anyone picking up and been left on hold until the call disconnected. Weekday afternoons offer a much better chance to sit back and enjoy this vibrant, easygoing cafe.

Matt Berkley is a longtime critic for Sauce Magazine. 

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Review: Hello Juice & Smoothie in St. Louis https://www.saucemagazine.com/places-2/review-hello-juice-and-smoothie-in-st-louis-17333577/ Wed, 08 May 2019 20:40:09 +0000 https://www.saucemagazine.com/places/review-hello-juice-and-smoothie-in-st-louis-17333577/

Business is booming on a Saturday afternoon at Hello Juice & Smoothie at 1000 S. Newstead Ave., in St. Louis. A steady growl of heavy-duty blenders working overtime fills the air. The decor is much like the food concept – everything is clean, simple, earthy and bathed in sunlight. A young crowd of health-conscious diners […]

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Business is booming on a Saturday afternoon at Hello Juice & Smoothie at 1000 S. Newstead Ave., in St. Louis. A steady growl of heavy-duty blenders working overtime fills the air. The decor is much like the food concept – everything is clean, simple, earthy and bathed in sunlight. A young crowd of health-conscious diners flock to this laid-back, ultra-hip retreat for a unique menu packed with fresh fruits, vegetables, grains and various superfoods.

acai bowl Credit: david kovaluk

Acai Bowl 
This enormous smoothie bowl pleases with spoonful after spoonful of freshly blended organic blueberries, strawberries, acai, bananas and coconut milk. Like all the smoothies here, no ice, dairy or fillers are included. This shines through in the pleasant thickness of the smoothie, which is naturally sweet and satisfying. Piled on top are substantial pieces of more strawberry, blueberry, banana, coconut and a drizzle of honey, along with a hefty sprinkle of local Made Fare Co. granola, blended specially for Hello Juice.  

the chicken bone broth bowl with added veggies Credit: david kovaluk

Bone Broth
An abundance of rich, meaty flavor is packed into the little cups of fresh chicken bone broth, sourced from Bolyard’s Meat & Provisions. The standard broth, seasoned simply with salt, pepper, garlic, rosemary and lemon, is warm and soothing, akin to the succulent pan drippings of a freshly roasted bird. 

Add-in options are also available, like the Something Veggie with shredded carrots, zoodles and avocado. I like the broth with Something Spicy, which brings heat with chili peppers and smooth hits of fresh ginger, as well as microgreens and sliced cherry tomatoes for a fiery, healthy soup.  

Strawberry Toast
Meticulously dressed with sweet ingredients, the strawberry toast is a surprisingly healthy indulgence. A thick, crunchy slice of Knead sourdough is toasted and smeared with a hefty base of Nancy’s organic cultured probiotic cream cheese infused with honey and balsamic-fig glaze. Fresh sliced strawberries, along with crunchy bits of walnut, a sprinkle of sea salt and an extra drizzle of balsamic-fig glaze add more sweetness.

avocado toast Credit: david kovaluk

Avocado Toast 
A thick layer of creamy avocado is smeared onto a hot, crunchy slice of Knead Bakehouse + Provisions sourdough and topped generously with sunflower and pumpkin seeds. A handful of juicy cherry tomatoes round out the flavor profile, along with red pepper flakes for a nice element of heat. It’s hard to imagine a better avocado toast. 

The Orange Dream Smoothie
Pure orange juice blends with coconut milk, mango, pineapple and flax for a thick, gratifying cup of fresh fruitiness finished with a drizzle of bee pollen extract.   

The Downside
While its smoothie game is strong, Hello Juice & Smoothie’s full juice program took longer to get up and running. It hadn’t fully started up when I went, but has since launched.

Matt Berkley is a longtime contributor and critic for Sauce Magazine. 

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Review: Yapi Mediterranean Subs and Sandwiches in St. Louis Hills https://www.saucemagazine.com/places-2/review-yapi-mediterranean-subs-and-sandwiches-in-st-louis-hills-17337294/ Thu, 11 Apr 2019 21:17:49 +0000 https://www.saucemagazine.com/places/review-yapi-mediterranean-subs-and-sandwiches-in-st-louis-hills-17337294/

Yapi Mediterranean Subs and Sandwiches is a casual, family-run spot at 6413 Hampton Ave., that dishes out huge portions of classic Middle Eastern comfort food. While it has sparse decor and just a handful of tables, the kitchen is a true powerhouse. Chef-owner Armin Grozdanic makes it his personal mission to turn out big flavors […]

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Yapi Mediterranean Subs and Sandwiches
is a casual, family-run spot at 6413 Hampton Ave., that dishes out huge portions of classic Middle Eastern comfort food. While it has sparse decor and just a handful of tables, the kitchen is a true powerhouse. Chef-owner Armin Grozdanic makes it his personal mission to turn out big flavors with high-quality ingredients. These are a few of the best dishes. 


yapi chef-owner armin grozdanic Credit: david kovaluk


Gyro Supreme
 
Yapi’s Gyro Supreme is a showstopper. Easily big enough to feed two, the hearty sandwich offers thick, tender hunks of traditional gyro meat sliced to order and seared on a flattop. Moist but not too oily, the meat is cooked along with buttered somun, a soft and puffy bread thicker than plain old pita. 

The somun is then packed to overflowing with the lamby gyro meat, lettuce, tomato, red onion, mild banana pepper, cucumber slices, a sprinkle of feta and a ranch-laced tzatziki sauce. It’s exactly the rich flavors you expect from a traditional gyro and a pleasure to devour. 


the yapi burger Credit: david kovaluk


The Yapi Burger
 
The Yapi Burger utilizes a quarter-pound of kosher/halal beef for a solidly constructed take on a classic. Seasoned simply with salt and pepper and cooked to order on a searing grill, the quality of the meat shines through. 

The thick, juicy patty is plopped on a crispy, buttered bun along with lettuce, tomato, onion, cucumber, pickle, a healthy drizzle of mayo and decadent liquid cheddar. The hot, crispy side of fries is seasoned to surprisingly great effect with dry ranch dressing powder. 

Falafel 
Crispy and plump, savory and soft, a gang of five falafel balls comes with a cup of creamy tzatziki sauce for dunking. Fans will find it hard to share these, which make a great side order to any sandwich. 


cevapi at yapi Credit: david kovaluk

Cevapi 
The Bosnian equivalent of a kebab, cevapi is the house specialty. The star of the menu is carefully prepped with minced beef and special seasonings, then cured 24 hours before being pressed into little sausage-like links ready for the flattop. 

While the traditional version incorporates 20 percent lamb, this one comprises only beef, though Grozdanic smartly cooks lamb grease into the thick and crispy somun it’s served in so that it retains the extra-savory kick of the most classic iteration. The cevapi is served with a layer of red onion, lettuce, tomato, cucumber, banana peppers and sour cream. 

The Downside 
During lunch hours, service can slow to a crawl. Small operations, especially popular ones, can easily get overwhelmed during peak hours. Call ahead and carry out if time is an issue.

Matt Berkley is a longtime contributor and critic for Sauce Magazine. 

The post Review: Yapi Mediterranean Subs and Sandwiches in St. Louis Hills appeared first on Sauce Magazine: Intelligent Content For The Food Fascinated.

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Review: Mike’s Hot Dogs, Soups and Sandwiches in University City https://www.saucemagazine.com/places-2/review-mikes-hot-dogs-soups-and-sandwiches-in-university-city-17334354/ Wed, 06 Mar 2019 22:39:58 +0000 https://www.saucemagazine.com/places/review-mikes-hot-dogs-soups-and-sandwiches-in-university-city-17334354/

Editor’s note: Mike’s Hot Dogs has closed. With a steady thump of blues and rock setting the vibe, visiting Mike’s Hot Dogs, Soups and Sandwiches in University City feels like stepping inside an old jukebox. The fire engine-red interior is decorated with vintage music prints and black-and-white photos, along with a handful of tables and […]

The post Review: Mike’s Hot Dogs, Soups and Sandwiches in University City appeared first on Sauce Magazine: Intelligent Content For The Food Fascinated.

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Editor’s note: Mike’s Hot Dogs has closed.


With a steady thump of blues and rock setting the vibe, visiting Mike’s Hot Dogs, Soups and Sandwiches in University City feels like stepping inside an old jukebox. The fire engine-red interior is decorated with vintage music prints and black-and-white photos, along with a handful of tables and metal chairs. The comfort food throwback menu of burgers, hot dogs and fries is thoughtfully prepared with absolutely zero pretense by owner Michael Eagan. Here are some standouts from the kitchen.

Mike’s Texas-Style Chili
This chili is a heavy, stick-to-your-bones meat sauce speckled with pinto beans. The combination of ground chuck and sirloin is pure heaven on a chili dog or smothered on crispy house russet fries. Sprinkled with Monterey Jack and fresh chopped onions, the chili is likewise fantastic as a rich and hearty standalone dish.


polish sausage at mike’s hot dogs Credit: david kovaluk

Polish Sausage
The smoky, quarter-pound Angus beef Polish sausage is a thing to be adored. Loaded with traditional toppings of sauerkraut, hot brown mustard and caramelized onions, the sausage finishes with a salty crunch from deep-fried russet potato straws on top.

Angus Burger
The burger is not to be missed. Thin, quarter-pound Angus beef patties are cooked to a crisp char diner-style on a flattop under a hot weight and dressed with thick dill pickle slices and a heap of salty-sweet caramelized onions on a buttery, toasted brioche bun. The result: a hefty, juicy burger that tastes like it was delivered to your car window by a waitress on roller skates.

Old Mexico Hot Dog
Mike’s has serious prowess in selecting fresh ingredients to complement quarter-pound Red Hot Lou all-beef links. The Old Mexico is dusted with southwest seasoning before a quick boil, then it’s seared and dressed with a delightfully spicy jalapeno aioli, black bean-corn salsa and a light sprinkle of queso fresco.

Kansas City Hot Dog
The Kansas City dog is an outright battle of barbecue flavor. A snappy Angus link is joined by a generous layer of juicy, slow-roasted pulled pork, sweet and spicy house-made barbecue sauce and complementary tanginess from dill pickles and chopped white onions.

buffalo chicken sandwich at mike’s hot dogs Credit: david kovaluk

Buffalo Chicken Sandwich
Crispy, juicy fried chicken is the centerpiece of one of Mike’s best-selling sandwiches, topped with crisp apple wood-smoked bacon, Monterey Jack and a thick tomato slice. Tangy, fiery-hot Buffalo sauce mingles with creamy ranch dressing to calm the flames on a buttery, toasted brioche bun.

The Downside
The meat on the pork-centric Cuban sandwich, which substituted Jack cheese for Swiss, was overwhelmed by the unnecessary addition of barbecue sauce and would have benefitted from a more substantial bread than brioche. 

The fried cod sandwich was likewise a letdown. Though the ample cod fillet was nicely fried, the simple dressing of jalapeno aioli, lettuce and tomato did little to lift up the forgettable fish sandwich.

Matt Berkley is a longtime contributor and critic for Sauce Magazine. 

The post Review: Mike’s Hot Dogs, Soups and Sandwiches in University City appeared first on Sauce Magazine: Intelligent Content For The Food Fascinated.

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