Spheres, blocks, cubes, chips … whatever its form, ice plays a starring role in cocktail-making. But its absence can be equally important, for without the cold stuff’s flavor- and proof-diluting properties, a spirit’s full character truly shines. “Certain spirits taste better warm,” explained Robert Griffin, bar manager at The Royale. “Simpler is better. You’re showcasing a base spirit rather than building a mountain of flavors.” With their robust taste and complex character, room-temperature cocktails – multi-spirit mixes stirred without ice and served neat – make ideal selections for cold-weather sipping. Here, three of our favorites.

Phase II, Eclipse Restaurant After a month in an oak cask seasoned with Sump’s Ethiopia Abaya coffee, bartender Seth Wahlman’s innovative creation offers a complex, bittersweet flavor thanks to its unique mix of house-made Laphroaig cherry cordial and bourbon. Topped off with a cherry-coffee foam, this slow-sipper is handcrafted from start to finish. 6177 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.736.2222, eclipsestlouis.com No. 29, Little Country Gentleman Bar manager Jeffrey Moll Jr.’s concoction rounds out the vanilla and tobacco flavors of French rum with nutty and medicinal accents for a mellow richness that lingers on the palate. 8135 Maryland Ave., Clayton, 314.725.0719, littlecountrygentleman.com Fanciulli, The Royale Griffin uses Fernet-Branca and red vermouth to tame the burn and complement the toasty flavor of Bulleit rye whiskey in this edgy cousin to a Manhattan, one of a few ice-free offerings found on the bar’s Sunday night Cocktail Museum menu. 3132 S. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.772.3600, theroyale.com

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This fall, liquid locavores are pushing the farm-to-glass trend even further, with several local cocktail programs featuring drinks made with root vegetables. Such a leap shouldn’t be all that surprising: Beets, carrots and parsnips star in autumn dishes, after all, and if it tastes good on the plate, it stands to reason it’ll taste good in the glass. But it’s not just about taste. Bartenders prize these earthy ingredients for their natural sweetness, savory flavors and vibrant color, while beverage directors value them for how well they connect the kitchen and bar. “These drinks are meant to go with the food,” said Michael Murphy, beverage director for Niche and sister restaurants Brasserie, Pastaria and Taste. “They prime you for what’s coming and provide cohesiveness to the whole experience.”

The Roots Beet simple syrup, aquavit, ginger liqueur, Cynar
and lemon Billy Holley, bar manager at Tree House Restaurant, was inspired to use root vegetables at the bar after reading about a beet martini in a magazine. “We already have beets on the menu, so there’s always scrap available,” he explained. “And that sustainable element ties in with the theme of the restaurant.”

But making the idea a reality took trial and error – “kind of mad scientist stuff,” he laughed. Holley tried infusing vodka and gin with beets but found the concoction to be “too inky,” so he took a different avenue, adding puréed beets to hot simple syrup. The mixture – thick and earthy-sweet – was a winner, and now it forms the basis for The Roots, the vegetarian restaurant’s culinary-forward drink. “A lot of cocktails lean toward the sweet side,” Holley said, “but the beet sugar brings a savory element for balance.” Holley rounds out the cocktail’s flavor profile with other root vegetable flavors and citrus juice. “Beets and ginger are a natural flavor pairing,” he explained. “We played around with candied ginger, but it wasn’t right, so we moved to the Big O Ginger Liqueur, which is a really nice local product.” Cynar artichoke liqueur and lemon juice add depth and brightness, while aquavit from Midwestern microdistillery North Shore Distillery keeps things regional and adds a well-spiced kick. Garnished with a floating basil leaf and a radish wheel, the jewel-toned drink turns heads when it’s walked to a table.

Tree House Restaurant, 3177 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.696.2100, treehousestl.com Carrot Margarita Carrot juice, house-infused mango-chile tequila, lemon juice, Cointreau and agave nectar At Atomic Cowboy, it was the addition of a new kitchen gadget that set the wheels in motion for the restaurant’s Carrot Margarita (The Beetnik, a beet version, is also available.). When the The Grove hot spot added breakfast to its offerings about eight months ago, a juicer became part of the kitchen’s arsenal, and fresh vegetable juices – including carrot and beet – became a morning menu mainstay. “That juice is short-lived,” explained co-owner Jim Kellogg, “so we wanted to figure out how to use it in other areas, and we thought the margarita would be a good fit.”

It was a good hunch: The sweet-savory notes of the carrot juice turned out to be a perfect pairing for the smokiness of the tequila. From there, it took just a bit of fine-tuning, tweaking the sour and sweet elements of the classic margarita depending on the juice used. “Lemon works well with the carrot, lime with the beet,” said Kellogg, who was quick to credit former employee Constance Steinkamp with Atomic Cowboy’s addition of fresh vegetable juices. “For the sweetness, we found that Cointreau works better with the carrot, and Grand Marnier with the beet.” And both worked well with the salt-and-pepper rim already in use on the bar’s bloody mary. The drink’s nuanced flavor and vibrant color have made it a hit with patrons and, not surprisingly, a new standard on the menu.

Atomic Cowboy, 4140 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.775.0775, atomiccowboystl.com Parsnip Flavor Ice Parsnip juice, rum, lime, dill and sugar Culinary cocktails may take cues from the kitchen, but they tend to originate at the bar. The chefs at Niche, however, are turning that formula around, creating vegetable-based frozen cocktails for use on the restaurant’s tasting menu, including one made from juiced parsnips, rum, dill and sugar. “It’s got a profile like a piña colada – sweet, funky, tart,” explained chef-owner Gerard Craft. “Parsnips are like candy, and that made me think of Caribbean drinks, but a lot more Midwestern.” The cocktail’s clean-flavored sweetness paired with the kick of the alcohol make it an effective intermezzo; the fact that it’s served just like a mini Fla-Vor-Ice popsicle and eaten by squeezing it out of its plastic tube adds creativity and levity to the fine-dining experience. “Dining gets so serious,” Craft said. “You need to loosen people up and give them some fun.”

Niche, 7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.773.7755, nichestlouis.com Lavender Beets Knees Golden beet-infused gin, lavender honey and lemon juice The playfulness continues at the bar at Niche, where bartenders mix up a twist on the classic Bee’s Knees cocktail by infusing golden beets into gin. The drink was the result of a desire to make a cocktail that correlated with a dish from the kitchen that featured lavender and beets. “Red beets can be overpowering,” explained Murphy. “But golden beets, when they’re roasted, take on the seductive sweet-savory component we were looking for.” When infused into Pinckney Bend gin, a “very clean spirit” made in New Haven, Mo., that features a very light juniper flavor, the spirit takes on a golden hue and a delicate, earthy flavor that complements the floral notes of the lavender honey. Fresh lemon juice lends a balancing zing, as does the lavender salt rim on the glass.

Niche, 7734 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.773.7755, nichestlouis.com

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Hamachi-Avocado Ceviche
Courtesy of Oceano Bistro’s Jon Lowe
4 servings

2 Meyer lemons, unpeeled and rough chopped
1 orange, unpeeled and rough chopped
2 Tbsp. lemon juice
¼ cup light corn syrup
1 tsp. Champagne vinegar
1 Tbsp. honey
1 cup vegetable oil
1 lb. hamachi*
1 avocado
2 Tbsp. fresh or frozen peas
2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt
Sprouts

• Place the first six ingredients in a container. Using an immersion blender or a whisk, slowly add the vegetable oil to emulsify. Do not add the oil too fast or the vinaigrette will break. Strain though a fine mesh strainer.

• Thinly slice the hamachi – the thinner the better. Place five slices on each plate.

• Slice the avocado and distribute the slices in between the pieces of hamachi on each plate.

• Drizzle about ½ ounce of the lemon vinaigrette in a zigzag pattern across the hamachi and avocado.

• Drizzle 1 tablespoon of the olive oil over each plate, then top evenly with 10 to 12 peas.

• Season each plate with just a small pinch of salt.

• Finish each plate with a sprinkling of sprouts. Be sure not to use so many sprouts that it completely covers the hamachi.

*Hamachi may be special ordered through Bob’s Seafood, found frozen at Whole Foods Market or purchased through Oceano Bistro.

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Cantaloupe Soup
Courtesy of Trattoria Marcella’s Steve Komorek
8 servings

½ cup golden raisins
Amaretto
2 Tbsp. canola oil
5 slices prosciutto, julienned
2 medium cantaloupes
Juice of 2 limes
2 oz. honey
Pinch salt and a few grinds of freshly cracked black pepper
½ cup 40-percent heavy cream
½ cup crumbled Gorgonzola cheese
¼ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

• Place the raisins in a bowl and add Amaretto to cover. Set aside.

• Heat the oil in a sauté pan and fry the prosciutto until crispy. Drain on paper towels. 

• Seed the cantaloupe and cut it into cubes. 

• Purée the cantaloupe in a food processor, working in batches if necessary.

• Transfer the purée to a bowl and add the lime juice, honey, salt, pepper and cream. Stir to combine thoroughly.

• Portion the soup into chilled bowls.

• Top each bowl with a little bit of the cheese, the prosciutto, the Amaretto-soaked raisins and parsley.

• Serve immediately.

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Mini Crab Cakes
Courtesy of Bixby’s Todd Lough
6 servings

¼ cup fine diced yellow onion
¼ cup fine diced red bell pepper
1 Tbsp. butter
1 Tbsp. chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
1 tsp. dry English mustard
1 tsp. Old Bay seasoning
¼ cup mayonnaise
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
½ tsp. lemon zest
1 lb. lump crab meat (drained)
Sea salt and ground white pepper to taste
½ cup panko bread crumbs, plus extra for breading
Dash Cholula hot sauce
Vegetable oil
Black bean salsa (recipe follows)
1 orange, segmented
Orange-chipotle aïoli (recipe follows)

• Place the onion, bell pepper and butter in a sauté pan over medium heat. Sweat for 3 to 4 minutes, then spread the vegetables out on a sheet pan to cool. 

• Combine the next 10 ingredients plus ½ cup of the panko in a large mixing bowl. Add the peppers and onions. Mix gently. 

• Roll ¾ ounce of the crab mixture into a small ball, then roll it in panko to coat. With your palm, flatten the crab mixture into a cake. Repeat until all of the crab mixture is used; you should have about 18 to 20 cakes. 

• Coat the bottom of a sauté pan with the oil and allow to heat. Sear the cakes until heated through, working in batches if necessary.

• To serve, place about ½ cup of black bean salsa on individual plates. Divide the orange segments between the plates. Top with three crab cakes and drizzle each plate with orange-chipotle aïoli.

Black Bean Salsa

2 cups black beans, cooked tender
4 tomatillos, grilled and diced
2 red bell peppers, diced
½ bunch cilantro, chopped
Juice of 3 limes
1 small red onion, diced
2 Tbsp. olive oil
Salt and black pepper to taste

• Combine all of the ingredients in a mixing bowl.

Orange-Chipotle Aïoli

2 cups mayonnaise
1½ tsp. roasted garlic paste
½ tsp. orange zest
1½ Tbsp. chipotle pepper purée, seeds removed
½ tsp. sea salt

• Combine all of the ingredients in a mixing bowl.

• Refrigerate until ready to use.

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Goat Cheese Tart
Courtesy of Brasserie by Niche’s Michael Petres
Makes 1 10-inch tart

1½ cups flour
½ tsp. salt
¾ cup (1½ sticks) butter, cut into ¼-inch cubes and frozen
¼ cup ice water
1 cup heavy cream
2 garlic cloves, sliced
3 eggs
10½ oz. goat cheese, cut into 1-inch wide rounds
Chives, chopped

• Place the flour and salt in a food processor and blend until smooth. Scatter the butter over the flour and pulse in 30-second intervals until the mix resembles coarse meal. Add cold water and pulse (the dough will seem dry).

• Turn out the dough onto a work surface and, taking pieces about ¼ cup in volume, press the dough out flat using the heel of your hand. To prevent working the dough too much and melting the butter, only press each piece of dough out once; set aside each piece after flattening. When all the dough has been pressed, form it into a ball. This technique is called fraisage, and it will spread the butter out into thin layers and bring the dry dough together. 

• Roll out the dough between two sheets of parchment into a 12-inch rough circle. Let the dough rest, refrigerated, for at least 30 minutes. 

• Fill a 10-inch fluted tart pan with the dough and let it rest, refrigerated, for another 30 minutes. 

• Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Line the tart shell with parchment and fill with pie weights (or use uncooked rice or beans). Bake until the sides are totally set and beginning to turn golden brown, about 15 to 20 minutes.

• Remove the pie weights and prick the base of the shell all over with a fork. Bake for another 10 to 15 minutes, until the base of the shell is dry and golden brown. Let cool.

• Scald the heavy cream and garlic together, then let steep until cool. Strain out the garlic.

• In a blender, mix the garlic cream and eggs, adding the eggs one at a time. Add the goat cheese one piece at a time and blend until the mix is completely smooth.

• Preheat the oven to 275 degrees.

• Fill the baked shell with the goat cheese custard and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until the custard is set. The center of the tart should look springy rather than watery. 

• Sprinkle with chives and serve with fennel salad or your favorite tossed green salad.

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Egg Raviolo
Courtesy of Acero’s Jim Fiala
6 servings

2¼ cups flour
3 whole eggs
¾ cups shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano
¾ cups mascarpone cheese
1½ cups ricotta cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
6 egg yolks
4 Tbsp. butter

• Place the flour on a large floured surface and make a well in the center. 

• Break the whole eggs into the well and beat them with a fork.

• Using a fork, gently start to work the flour into the liquid.

• Continue until the dough becomes sticky and difficult to work with the fork, then use your hands to form the rough dough into a ball.

• Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface.

• Knead the dough until it is smooth and elastic, about 10 minutes.

• Cover with a bowl or towel and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes.

• Meanwhile, stir together the cheeses and salt and pepper in a bowl.

• On a lightly floured surface, roll out the dough to a thickness where you can see the knots on a wooden cutting board. Cut the dough in half and reserve one half, covering it with a dry towel. 

• Divide the filling into six portions on the other half of the dough, spacing them about 1 to 2 inches apart. 

• Make a well in the center of each filling and place an egg yolk in the center, being careful not to break the yolk. 

• Using your fingers, lightly wet the dough with water. Place the reserved sheet of dough on top of the filling and eggs and press around the filling to seal the top sheet to the bottom sheet, removing as much air as possible. Removing the air is very important. 

• Cut the dough with a large cookie cutter or pastry wheel. 

• Boil in salted water for 3 to 6 minutes, depending on the thickness of the dough, or until al dente. Drain carefully and portion onto plates.

• In a stainless steel sauté pan, brown the butter over medium heat. Season to taste with salt and drizzle over each raviolo.

The post Recipe: Acero’s Egg Raviolo appeared first on Sauce Magazine: Intelligent Content For The Food Fascinated.

Crawfish Bread
Courtesy of Monarch’s Josh Galliano
8 servings

4½ tsp. active dry yeast
2 cups warm water
½ cup sugar
2 tsp. salt
7 cups plus ¼ cup all-purpose flour, divided
3 eggs, beaten, plus 1 whole egg
1¼ cup shortening, lard or butter, melted
¼ lb. (1 stick) butter
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 stalk celery, small dice
1 medium onion, small dice
2 red bell peppers, small dice
3 Tbsp. sherry
3 Tbsp. Crystal hot sauce
1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce
1 tsp. onion powder
1 tsp. garlic powder
1½ cups heavy cream
2 lbs. crawfish tails
2 cups shredded pepper Jack cheese
1 cup shredded Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper to taste
Cayenne pepper to taste
Semolina
1 Tbsp. water

• Combine the yeast, water and sugar in a mixing bowl. Mix thoroughly and
allow to sit in a warm spot for about 10 minutes or until very foamy.

• Combine the salt and 7 cups of the flour in the bowl of a stand mixer. Add the yeast mixture and, using a dough hook, mix them together on low speed. After mixing for 1 minute, slowly add in the beaten eggs.

• Once the eggs are thoroughly combined, drizzle in the melted shortening, lard or butter. Continue mixing for 5 minutes on low speed.

• Remove the dough to an oiled mixing bowl. Cover loosely with a towel and allow to proof until doubled in size, about 1 hour.

• Punch the dough down. The dough is ready to use or it can be refrigerated for
later use.

• In a large pot over medium heat, melt the butter. Sweat the garlic, celery,
onion and bell peppers until translucent. Add the sherry and cook for 1 minute. Add the hot sauce, Worcestershire, onion powder and garlic powder.

• Add the remaining ¼ cup flour, stirring constantly so that nothing burns and there are no lumps. Add the heavy cream and cook over medium-low heat for about 20 minutes or until the raw flour flavor has been cooked out.

• Add the crawfish tails and cook for another 5 minutes, then remove the pot from the heat. Stir in the cheeses.

• Season to taste with salt, pepper and cayenne. Transfer the crawfish mixture to a casserole dish and cool completely in the refrigerator.

• To assemble, prepare a baking tray with a copious amount of semolina in order to prevent the crawfish breads from sticking. Preheat a fryer to 350 degrees and an oven to 250 degrees. Prepare an egg wash by whisking together the remaining egg with 1 tablespoon of water.

• Measure the dough into eight 4-ounce portions. On a flour-dusted surface, roll out the dough to a 7-inch circle a little more than 1/8-inch thick. Brush
the dough with the egg wash, then place slightly less than ½ cup of the crawfish
filling slightly off center on each piece of dough. Fold the dough over the
filling into a half-moon shape, pressing the dough close to the filling to minimize
air pockets.

• Using a fork, crimp the edges of each bread. Use a knife or a pizza cutter to
remove the excess edge and transfer to the semolina-dusted baking tray. 

• Place the breads into the fryer, frying no more than two breads at a time. Fry for 3 minutes on the first side, then gently flip the bread and fry for 2 minutes on the second side. Carefully remove from the fryer and drain on a baking tray lined with paper towels. Hold the crawfish bread in the oven until you’re ready to serve them.

The post Recipe: Monarch’s Crawfish Bread appeared first on Sauce Magazine: Intelligent Content For The Food Fascinated.

Mole Poblano
Courtesy of Milagro Modern Mexican’s Jason Tilford
6 cups

4 poblano chiles
8 ancho chiles, toasted, stemmed and seeded
4 guajillo chiles, toasted, stemmed and seeded
3 garlic cloves, chopped
4 cups low-sodium chicken broth
½ cup almonds
¼ cup peanuts
¼ cup raisins
2 cloves
1 Tbsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. cinnamon
2 Tbsp. sugar
2 oz. Mexican chocolate
2 cups diced tomatoes

• On a gas grill or broiler, roast the poblano chiles until the skin is blistered and slightly black in spots. Remove from the heat and wrap with plastic wrap; let sit for 10 minutes. Remove the wrap and skin the chiles, then slice them in half and remove the seeds and stem. 

• Place all of the ingredients in a 2-quart saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes. 

• Remove from the heat and let the sauce cool to a safe temperature for blending. In small batches, purée the sauce until smooth. 

• Return the sauce to the stove top and cook for another 5 to 10 minutes. Adjust viscosity with more broth or warm water.

The post Recipe: Milagro Modern Mexican’s Mole Poblano appeared first on Sauce Magazine: Intelligent Content For The Food Fascinated.

Gingerbread Cobbler
Courtesy of Duff’s Jim Voss
8 servings

 
5 red Anjou pears
3 Granny Smith apples
1¼ cup sugar, divided
¼ cup lemon juice
2¼ cups flour, divided
½ cup golden raisins
1 cup apple cider
1 Tbsp. dried ground ginger
1 Tbsp. baking powder
4 Tbsp. cold cubed butter
¼ cup blackstrap molasses
1/3 cup heavy cream
Ground nutmeg
Ground cinnamon

• Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. 

• Core and dice the pears and apples into ½-inch cubes.

• Sauté the pears and apples with 1 cup of the sugar and the lemon juice over low heat until the sugar dissolves. Dust with ¼ cup flour and add the raisins. 

• Add the cider and cook for a few more minutes until the mixture becomes syrupy. Set aside.

• Combine the remaining ¼ cup sugar, 2 cups of flour, the ginger and baking powder in a food processor and pulse once or twice to combine. 

• Add the butter in stages, and pulse until a coarse mixture forms. 

• Transfer the mixture to a bowl, and add the molasses and cream. Stir just until combined. 

• Divide the fruit mixture between eight large ramekins.

• Lightly form the dough into eight disks. Top each ramekin with dough and bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until the tops turn golden brown. Dust with nutmeg and cinnamon.

• Serve warm with cinnamon ice cream or a generous dollop of fresh whipped cream.

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