The Scoop: Fu Manchu to become Franklin’s
Yes, ’tis true: Mike Johnson is shuttering Fu Manchu. Johnson is selling the downtown Maplewood restaurant to Scott Lapp and Tony Vrooman, co-founders of the local networking group River City Professionals. The pair plans to retool the space and the concept before reopening in mid-March as Franklin’s, a burger joint with a twist. The menu…
New winery and brewery takes flight
Another reason Grafton has it going on: a big new winery and microbrewery. Last weekend saw the grand opening of Grafton Winery & Brewhaus. “It was nuts, luckily – we’re not complaining!” said Mike Nikonovich, who co-owns the $2.5 million facility with his wife, Lori. Seven Grafton Winery wines are on the menu, including blends…
Brussels sprouts are not a nose-turner
Any home cook who’s entertained has worried whether the menu would please all the guests. Just so this past weekend, when I served Brussels sprouts as part of a multicourse vegetarian meal. Winter squash was part of the theme. Butternut and acorn squashes appeared in a chestnut soup garnished with sautéed chestnuts and mushrooms in…
Sweet and savory (and veg-friendly)
My latest stop at SweetArt, the new pastry shop-cum-art gallery in the Shaw neighborhood, turned up savory fare, too. SweetArt is already making waves with its decadent cookies and cupcakes, and just last Saturday, Reine and Cbabi Bayoc’s storefront debuted a small-but-tasty menu of vegetarian sandwiches. SweetArt was already offering incredibly good quiche and savory…
Smokin’
Congratulations to O’Fallon Brewery, whose Whiskey Barrel Smoked Porter was just named one of the top 25 beers of 2008 by Draft Magazine, a national pub for beer enthusiasts. “Is that not the most awesome thing in the world?” said O’Fallon co-owner Fran Caradonna. We’d go so far as to say it’s sawesome.
The Scoop: Passing the torch
We’ve heard the whispers for months now, but 33 Wine Shop and Tasting Bar owner Jake Hafner confirmed the news today that he is selling the Lafayette Square spot. New owner Jeff Stettner is in the process of obtaining a liqour license and will take the reins once that process is complete. While Hafner says…
Drink your bacon
Recently, my saint of a cousin presented me with my very own jar of bacon-infused vodka, and I knew immediately what needed to happen. I had to uncover the perfect way to honor and enjoy this liquid gold, then share this critical knowledge with everyone I could. So, here are my findings in order from…
The Scoop: Ciao, Parker’s Table
Jonathan Parker has announced the sad news that he’s shuttering his Parker’s Table wine shop in the coming weeks. The building, at 8137 Maryland Ave., that houses the Clayton shop has been sold, and Parker said he must vacate as a result. The silver lining? One heckuva sale: All wine is currently 20 percent off,…
He Said / She Said: Bring on the Wings
Russ: For a bird that doesn’t really fly, chickens do have some amazing wings. I mean, you don’t hear much about turkey wings or squab wings or ‘ Kathy: Ostrich wings! Can you imagine? You’d only get one per order. R: I’ll stick to wings from little red hens, gobbling ’em up with a peck-peck-peck…
Route du Brew
Ste. Genevieve is officially wine and beer country. Not only is the region home to the acclaimed beers of Charleville Vineyard & Microbrewery, but it now boasts Crown Valley Brewing & Distilling Co., too. Currently available at Spokes Pub & Grill in Farmington are six Crown Valley drafts: Sleighbell Spiced Ale, Barnwood Blonde Ale, Old…
The Scoop: Branching out
Diane and Bryan Carr of Clayton’s Pomme Restaurant and Pomme Café and Wine Bar will soon expand their culinary reach to Olivette. The couple plans to launch their new Mockingbird Market there in early March; the neighborhood grocery will feature prepared foods made in Pomme’s kitchen. Mockingbird Market will be located at 9200 Olive Blvd.
More Adventures in Soy Milk
I couldn’t stop coming up with soy-milk creations while researching Adventures in Soy Milk for the January issue. Here’s an extra that deserves recognition – PBJ Polenta for breakfast – using cornmeal, nut butter, jelly or jam, and of course, soy milk: • Cook cornmeal just like you would for polenta, except in soy milk…
Soup of the day
Looking for a light lunch? We spent some time on the ol’ horn this morning finding some hit-the-spot soups: • South City’s Stellina Pasta Cafe has a delicious, aromatic truffle cauliflower: 314.256.1600. • Annie Gunn’s in Chesterfield is pulling out the big guns with a hearty wild mushroom and barley: 636.532.7684. • The Central West…
The Scoop: New to the team
Joe Hovland has joined the crew at Straub’s Markets as executive chef; he’ll bring his culinary talents to the Ellisville location’s café and private meeting space. Hovland comes to the local grocer after a stint as executive chef at Cardwell’s Restaurant & Bar in Clayton.
Totally organic
All organic, all the time: Goshen Coffee, based in Edwardsville, is now the area’s first 100 percent organic coffee roaster. Goshen has been an OCIA International-certified organic roaster since 2004. “In 2008 we were 98 percent organic and almost 90 percent fair trade, so we decided that it was a good time to make the…
Down-Home Values: Soul food uses all the parts
Soul cooking, like all food traditions, is an expression of its people. It is an economic style of cookery born from necessity. ‘It’s not having the best pick of the litter on meat,’ said Janice O’Bannon of Sweetie Pie’s in Dellwood. ‘It’s doing the best that you can with what you have ‘ in fact,…
Cashew-Pumpkin Spread
1 ¾ cups
Annie Gunn’s Fonduta Mac ‘n’ Cheese
4 servings
The Scoop: Double the space
A’mis Italian Restaurant nearly doubled its size last month, when owners Shabtai Moria and Ami Demti welcomed guests to their newly expanded O’Fallon, Mo., location. The new digs, at 3728 Monticello Plaza, include seats for 100 diners and a private party room.
The Scoop: New menu
Watch for The Contemporary Art Museum’s Tempt Cafe to undergo some changes in the coming weeks. Steven Becker Fine Dining will take over the cafe’s operations and will revamp the menu. Selections from the caterer’s Nadoz Euro Bakery Cafe, including Nadoz’s signature desserts, are expected to feature prominently in the new menu lineup.
Saucy blogging
The new Sauce editorial blog is the place for you to find up-to-date Saucy information on all things food in St. Louis. Look here for daily posts on insider peeks into the industry, cooking tips, dining about town, favorite dishes, our take on popular food culture, wine tasting notes … if it has to do…
The Scoop: Better than the cafeteria
Former Franco chef Justin Keimon has landed behind the stoves at Ibby’s, a new restaurant on Washington University’s Danforth campus. Keimon oversees the blend of Continental and contemporary American cuisine offered at the eatery, which is open to both the dining public and, as part of the university’s food-service program, to students and faculty. Stop…
The Scoop: Happy, happy
Happy birthday to Stellina Pasta Cafe, which turns two today. Stop by 3342 Watson Road this evening to sip a glass of complimentary bubbly with owners Jamey and Lisa Tochtrop.
The Scoop: Sugar in Shaw
Those with a sweet tooth should swing by Sweet Art, now open at 2203 S. 39th St. in the Shaw neighborhood. Husband and wife C’babi and Reine Bayoc (he is a well-known local artist; she sells her cookies and other baked goods under the name Moon Day Soul Treats) have combined forces to create the…
The Scoop: A transformation in St. Charles
After a mid-December opening, Brickhouse Bistro is now serving its unique American fare in New Town at St. Charles. Executive chef Mike Fortner, formerly of downtown’s Skybox, has overseen the eatery’s transformation from Ruskin O’Brien’s Irish Pub to the new white-tableclothed bistro, which now sports a menu of entrées, sandwiches and unique small plates such…
The Scoop: Mixing it up in Maplewood
Maplewood’s Cooper-Ella café quietly changed hands last month. Current visitors won’t notice much of a difference, but new owner Jackie Sanders has some changes up her sleeve. In the coming months, the café’s kids’ area will be replaced with a small gallery for local artists to sell their work, live music will be offered, and…
The Scoop: Reeling them in in Des Peres
McCormick & Schmick’s will soon bring its vast selection of fresh seafood to West County. The upscale chain, known for changing its menu twice a day based on the seafood deliveries, will open its first St. Louis location at West County Center in late February. The menu, which will also feature steaks, poultry, salads and…
The Scoop: Cheers!
A Saucy congrats to Niche’s and Veruca Bakeshop’s pastry chef Mathew Rice, who again represents The Lou’s food scene in the pages of the February issue of Food & Wine. Rice’s Milk Chocolate Cookies with Malted Cream appear in the magazine’s feature story on milk chocolate.
The Scoop: New spot for a cup o’ joe
Ballwin will soon be abuzz with caffeine, when Lone Wolf Coffee Co. debuts later this month. Starting Jan. 26, owners Ralph Pfremmer, Kevin Miquelon, Brian Dittmer and Taylor Strecker will offer guests the requisite full menu of coffee beverages, a menu of breakfast items, including omelets and quiche, and a lunch board of signature and…
The Scoop: Maplewood will be home to STL’s latest wine bar
Looks as though the wine bar trend will continue in ’09: Saint Louis Cellars’ Matt and Jennifer Williams have announced that they will partner with chef Greg Maggi, last of Robust in Webster Groves, to debut Saint Louis Cellars Food & Wine this spring. The new venture, which will be located adjacent to Saint Louis…
The Scoop: New to the team
Mike Bossi has joined Straub’s Market as the wine, beer and liquor department manager.
The Scoop: Raise a glass
A Saucy congratulations to Duff’s owners Karen Duffy and Tim Kirby; the pair has been named the 2008 Restaurateurs of the Year by the Greater St. Louis Restaurant Association.
The Scoop: Not so fast
The rumor mill’s been in overdrive the last 36 hours over purported happenings at The Shaved Duck; one published report even sounds the death knell for the South City eatery. Not so fast: Executive chef Brendan Noonan will be leaving the kitchen, but The Duck is not closing, confirms owner Alastair Nisbet. A fine-tuning is…
The Scoop: More Jack Mac
Sage’s executive chef Jack W. MacMurray III checked in with the Scoop today to report that he and Sage co-owner John Schute will soon debut Beechwood Bistro By Sage. The new eatery, which will be housed in Union Station, will feature a menu of American comfort foods (aka “Jack Mac food”) and a casual atmosphere.…
The Scoop: Double the fun
The Jive and Wail has doubled the dueling-piano fun with a second location in St. Peters, now open at 6101 Mid-Rivers Mall Drive.
The Scoop: Welcome back
The space at 1637 Clayton Road is back to serving sushi. Formerly Yoshi’s, the popular Chesterfield spot shuttered for about six weeks late last year for some remodeling; it reopened in December with a new look, new ownership and a new name: Momoyama Japanese Sushi Restaurant. The menu, save for a few new additions, is…
Salt: So many splendid reasons to season
At first, the idea of a user’s guide to the world’s most popular seasoning seemed preposterous. Who doesn’t know how to use salt? Use too little and your taste buds will be deeply disappointed; use too much and end up with a desperate need for a glass of water. But the world of salt is…
Eight Ways to Use Local Nut Butters This Spring
When the chill of a January morning threatens to chase a good mood to ugly, spread a little cashew nut butter on wheatberry toast. The thermometer won’t budge, but your happy meter could. It worked for me at the first glaze of ice and snow. And to think: If I didn’t have this job, I…
Review: Fond Restaurant in Edwardsville
Opening a restaurant just before winter is a dangerous proposition, especially if the restaurant promises seasonal foods comprising locally procured fruits, vegetables, meats and herbs; this isn’t exactly the right time for just-picked tomatoes or fresh-from-the-garden greens. Even riskier is opening a high-end, very expensive restaurant in a college town of maybe 25,000 residents situated…
Review: Herbie’s Vintage 72 in St. Louis
A new linen tablecloth has been brought out for a trio of girls who slide into a plush maroon booth, turning several male heads in the process. In the back the cooks are searing filet mignon; the aroma wafts through the air. A hapless boyfriend stands at the crowded bar with annoyed lady in tow,…
Recipe: Annie Gunn’s Fonduta Mac ‘n’ Cheese
Let the wind howl and the temperature drop; Old Man Winter’s got nothin’ on Annie Gunn’s Fonduta Mac ‘n’ Cheese. Chef Lou Rook ups the ante on this comforting classic with nutty Fontina and crisp Riesling, then piles on the richness with lobster and cream. You may not come up for air till spring. Fonduta…
Mangorita Martini
1 serving
Lemony Zucchini Bread
6 servings
English roots, French technique and American tastes
Eddie Neill has been around the block a few times. Past projects include Café Provencal, Fresh Gatherings, Jazz at the Bistro … and now he’s involved in a new venture in Grand Center, Wm. Shakespeare’s Gastropub. Neill brings a love of traditional cuisine to each of his restaurants, and Shakespeare’s is no exception. Walk into…
Plentiful pub grub with an Irish accent
We’ve been covering the Kids’ Table beat for more than a year now, and in that span we’ve done a lot of culinary globetrotting, from Mexican to Peruvian, Greek to Thai. But for whatever reason, we’ve managed to miss covering the cuisines of our own family’s heritage – German and Irish. So we figured it…
Profiting from local pours
For many years, it has been one of my greatest disappointments: Local restaurants give little support to our regional wineries. I can’t figure out why. Fifteen to 20 years ago, local wines had their issues – distribution was difficult and quality was sometimes questionable – so I understand why restaurateurs may once have been hesitant…
Bloody Good: Rising and shining with bodacious Bloody Marys
Like cures like – or at least that’s what they’ve said for centuries. The medical jury’s still out on this claim, but in the meantime we say drink up come morning. Remedies for what ails your aching head run the gamut from a touch piquant to hot-hot-hot. And it’s not just vodka that’s for breakfast…
Funny menu, serious food
It may be my penchant for tattooed wait staffs. It might be my love of hand-tossed dough and canned Stag beer. Or dishes with names like Stinky Pizza. But something has steered me back to The Wedge four times in three weeks. Whatever it is, this place is good. Really good. This bar/club/pizzeria gets its…
The restaurant snapshot
December’s frozen mantle frosts the windows and streets. With little effort, winter solstice has taken the day early, and night is just that much longer. Safe from the terrible night’s teeth, however, the dining room huddles warm, tables of people eating, drinking, talking. Elbow to elbow, slowly unveiling layers of wool and cotton, they quaff…
Mangorita Martini
1 serving 2 tsp. smoked paprika 2 tsp. kosher salt 2 lime wedges 1 tsp. sugar 2 oz. lemon juice ½ oz. triple sec 1½ oz. añejo tequila 2 oz. puréed fresh mango Lime wheel • Mix the paprika and kosher salt on a small plate. • Rub the rim of a martini glass with…
Spanish Hot Chocolate
1 serving 4 oz. milk 6 oz. bittersweet chocolate 1 Tbsp. ground cinnamon 1 Tbsp. sugar 1 Tbsp. salt 1 oz. Licor 43 Whipped cream Freshly grated cinnamon • In a thick-bottomed pot, heat the milk and chocolate. • Mix the ground cinnamon, sugar and salt on a small plate. • Rim a coffee glass…
