The Vine began as a small grocery specializing in Lebanese, Palestinian and Iraqi foods, but since the South Grand spot expanded to the space next door, you can find anything from exotic spices to kosher marshmallows to Arabic coffee and, now, a café menu overflowing with interesting dishes.
This kind of food uses a lot of garlic, grains, greens and savory spice. It’s not too greasy, but it is filling and the portions are huge. It’s also all halal, or compliant with Islamic dietary laws.
Start off with an order of kibbeh, two large football-shaped fried treats whose bulgur wheat shells encase a mixture of diced ground beef, onions and nutmeg that’s somewhat dry. The flavor is subtle and satisfying, with the nutmeg complementing the other ingredients well. Two or three mana-ish are also the perfect starter: soft and doughy star-shaped savory pastries served warm and filled with different mixtures, from feta and onion to creamy yogurt to jebna (cheese) to meat. They’re also available in mini sizes if you have the inkling to try ’em all.
Sandwiches, all fresh and filling and wrapped in toasted pita bread, include both the familiar (falafel, which features two or three boldly spiced, crispy, homemade patties) and the perhaps less familiar. The Shish Kafta – a lean ground beef link blended with parsley, onions, garlic and spices then rolled up in bread with a smooth tahini sauce, tomato and pickle – is a highlight. The meat has a pleasant flavor similar to nutmeg, the result of a “secret Lebanese spice mixture,” according to the restaurant, that makes for a wonderful, well-rounded bite.
Entrées here are big enough for three people (or for one with two really big helpings of leftovers), so order wisely. Among several vegetarian choices is the batata harra, a dish that, in theory, sounds great, but isn’t so well executed … unless you’re into french fries and rice. It’s described as “potato, cilantro and hot spices sautéed in olive oil,” which sounds not much like the end result: a huge portion of cubed crunchy potatoes resting atop a bed of aromatic basmati rice topped with tomato and zaatar, a spice blend of thyme, marjoram, sumac and toasted sesame seeds. It’s dry, heavy and in desperate need of some vegetables.
Also unspectacular is the chicken kabob: a plate of grilled veggies accompanied by a bed of rice and huge chunks of boneless chargrilled white chicken, which is rather dry. A redeeming quality, however, is a side of a delicious creamy garlic spread that adds a kick and a little moisture to any dish in need. There are many options for side dishes at The Vine, some more exotic than others, but we recommend the yogurt salad, which is not so much a salad but a bowl of thin yogurt mixed with olive oil, small chunks of cucumber and garlic. Slightly sweet and very refreshing, it goes great with anything on the menu.
Meat-eaters should not miss the meat shwarma entrée, a mixture of tender, spit-roasted beef and lamb on top of fluffy basmati rice. There’s not much to it, but don’t let its simplicity fool you, it’s deeply flavorful and extremely satisfying.
In addition to all these tasty options is a full list of fresh-pressed juices and smoothies, Lebanese coffee and desserts. Service is direct and efficient, and it’s understood that your server will always know more than you when it comes to Mediterranean cuisine.
FILLING UP FOR $20 OR LESS
Dine-In-Ability: Seating space is minimal, but the large banquette with the fluffy pillow is very welcoming.
Try It, You’ll Like It: The yogurt salad, the Shish Kafta and a mango smoothie.
Feast or Famine: The menu appeals equally to vegetarians and meat-eaters.
Where: The Vine Mediterranean Café and Market, 3171 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.776.0991
When: Sun. to Wed. – 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Thu. to Sat. – 11 a.m. to midnight
This article appears in March 2024.