Whether you’re vegan or not, this latest incarnation of Chris Bertke’s Vegan Deli and Butcher aims to make sandwiches you’ll crave. The cevapi shows off Bertke’s plant-based adaptation of a southeastern European grilled sausage sandwich, served with sliced onion, pepperoncini, ajvar (Balkan roasted red pepper sauce) and vegan kajmak (a creamy condiment similar to clotted cream) stuffed inside fresh somun delivered daily from neighboring Europa Market. The menu also features vegan spins on classic sandwiches like the Reuben and the Philly cheesesteak, and their hot salami is delicious, with housemade aged vegan salami served on a fresh Marconi Bakery hoagie. The Maine lobster roll is a genuine surprise: The creamy “lobster” salad gets its texture from roasted hearts of palm and shredded jackfruit, which also brings a touch of sweetness. It’s served on a buttered and toasted bun, with Old Bay seasoning, green onion and crunchy celery all showing up to the party. Top it with potato chips for a salty, lip-smacking finish.
5003 Gravois Ave., St. Louis, stlvegandeliandbutcher.com
This article appears in March 2024.